Monday, December 16, 2013

Testing Procedures

 
The final outfit is a costume intended for a storybook character created by a partner and me.  A live stage production is the hypothetical situation the outfit will be worn in.  The outfit is intended for stage but will ultimately be worn by a live model, a classmate and friend.  The outfit must fit a set list of specifications, including but not limited to, fitting the model, representing a marine organism, and putting on and taking off the outfit easily.  Tests will be done for throughout the duration of the project to ensure a quality final product that fits all specifications.  Testing procedures will be administered be the designer.      

Testing Type: Exploratory
Testing Stage: Preliminary
State of Solution: Drawing
Condition of Testing Stage: Classroom/ Home
Tools and Equipment required: Paper, pencil, and eraser

Testing Procedures:

1.      Review brainstorming

2.      Sketch alternate solutions     

3.      Review alternate solutions

4.      Improve solutions

5.      Post solutions on blog


Testing Type: Exploratory
Testing Stage: Secondary
State of Solution: Computer spreadsheet, hand drawings, design matrix
Condition of Testing Stage: Conceptual on paper/ computer
Tools and Equipment required: Camera, drawn alternate solutions, computer


Testing Procedures:

1.      Create a design matrix on Microsoft Excel

2.      Input grading criteria

3.      Take photos of alternate solutions   

4.      Input alternate solution photos into matrix

5.      Specify a scale solution will be graded on

6.      Grade each alternate solution for each criteria

7.      Add totals

8.      Determine based on totals which alternate solution is best

Testing Type: Exploratory
Testing Stage: Tertiary
State of Solution: Conceptual model, Fabric Board
Condition of Testing Stage: Conceptual on computer
Tools and Equipment required: Computer, Camera

Testing Procedures:

1.      Draw final solution drawings

2.      Take photos of final solution

3.      Upload photos to PowerPoint

4.      Research and acquire photos of fabric intended to be used

5.      Acquire photos related to the “look” of the final garment

6.      Organize photos and words on the fabric board

7.      Upload fabric board to blog

Testing Type: Assessment/ Comparison  
Testing Stage: Preliminary  
State of Solution: Fabric
Condition of Testing Stage: Fabric Store/ Inside
Tools and Equipment required: Final solution drawing

Testing Procedures:

1.      Acquire potential fabrics

2.      Test the quality of material

3.      Test elasticity of material

4.      Compare color of material to drawings

5.      Compare prices of potential fabrics

6.      Repeat process for each type of fabric needed

7.      Determine yardage needed

8.      Purchase fabric

Testing Type: Assessment
Testing Stage: Secondary  
State of Solution: Pattern fitting
Condition of Testing Stage: Inside     
Tools and Equipment required: Patterns, pins, live model, tape, measuring tape, scissors   

Testing Procedures:

1.      Acquire full size patterns

2.      Acquire live model

3.      Test fit at waist

4.      Test fit of skirt

5.      Pin garment where seem are required

6.      Check length of skirt

7.      Test fit of shirt

Testing Type: Assessment
Testing Stage: Tertiary
State of Solution: Initial fabric fitting
Condition of Testing Stage: Inside     
Tools and Equipment required: Fabric, live model, pins, thimble, scissors, measuring tape     

Testing Procedures:

1.      Acquire fabric

2.      Acquire model

3.      Place fabric on model

4.      Pin fabric where seems belong

5.      Remove garments from model 

Testing Type: Assessment
Testing Stage: Quaternary
State of Solution: Sewing technique
Condition of Testing Stage: Inside     
Tools and Equipment required: Fabric, machine, needles, thread, scissors, thread cutter     

Testing Procedures:

1.      Acquire fabric

2.      Acquire sewing machine

3.      Begin sewing seems

4.      Check to see if fabric is responding as desired/ check for puckering

5.      Finish sewing seems

 
Testing Type: Validation
Testing Stage: Preliminary
State of Solution: Final fitting
Condition of Testing Stage: Inside     
Tools and Equipment required: Garments, model, pins, thread, scissors, thread cutter     

Testing Procedures:

1.      Acquire garment

2.      Acquire model

3.      Place garments on model

4.      Check fit of each garment

5.      Mark any seems or spots that need fixing

6.      Fix any issues

7.      Repeat process steps 1-6 until garments fit correctly




 
Observation Sheet
 
Yes/ No
Testing Type: Exploratory
Testing Stage: Preliminary
1.    Are there four alternate solutions?
2.    Are they all viable?
3.    Do solutions include materials, color and descriptions?
4.    Are they based of performed research and brainstorming? 
 
 
Testing Type: Exploratory
Testing Stage: Secondary
1.    Is the design matrix neat?
2.    Are all four alternate solutions incorporated?
3.    Is each solution graded on the same scale?
4.    Are there photos of each solution?
5.    Are the solutions graded based on specifications and necessary classifications? 
 
 
Testing Type: Exploratory
Testing Stage: Tertiary
1.    Is the fabric board neat and professional?
2.    Are all fabrics shown on the board?
3.    Is the vision of the garment depicted?  
 
 
Testing Type: Assessment/ Comparison Testing Stage: Preliminary 
1.    Is the fabric the intended color?
2.    Is the fabric the correct weight?
3.    Is the elasticity correct? 
4.    Is the price in budget?
 
 
Testing Type: Assessment
Testing Stage: Secondary 
1.    Does pattern fit model?
2.    Does the pattern accurately represent final solution?
3.    Does the pattern need to be altered in any way?
 
 
Testing Type: Assessment
Testing Stage: Tertiary
1.    Does garment fit model?
2.    Are the seams lying where they should be?
3.    Do any changes need to be made to the garment?
 
 
Testing Type: Assessment
Testing Stage: Quaternary
1.    Is the fabric puckering?
2.    Are the seams sturdy?
3.    Is the fabric reacting to sewing as desired?  
 
 
Testing Type: Validation
Testing Stage: Preliminary
1.    Does the garment fit the model?
2.    Do seams look as they should?
3.    Do the garments look like drawings?
4.    Does the garment need to be altered in any way?
 
 
 




 

Friday, December 6, 2013

Fabric Board Works Cited


A Creative Universe (2010, September 9). (2013, December 3). Photography, Light, Art, Jar, Florescent paint. Retrieved from http://lonelycactusflower.tumblr.com/post/6341891800/fluorescent-paint

Amazon (2013). (2013, December 3). Craft Cuts. Retrieved from http://www.amazon.com/Crafty-2-Yards-Cotton-Fabric-White/dp/B004FEEXC8

Britex (2013). (2013, December 3). Basic Coal Black Cotton Batiste. Retrieved from http://www.britexfabrics.com/fabric/cotton/lightweight/black-cotton-batise-fabric.html

Ebay (2013). (2013, December 3). UV Glow Neon Fabric Paint. Retrieved from http://www.ebay.com/itm/UV-Glow-Neon-Fabric-Paint-180ml-SET-of-6-Fluorescent-Super-Bright-fluo-/251222685261

Ebay (2013). (2013, December 3). GLOWING Liquid: Neon/UV/Blacklight Reactive Dye / Paint. Retrieved from http://www.ebay.com/itm/GLOWING-Liquid-Neon-UV-Blacklight-Reactive-Dye-Paint-/250852153576

Gibbs, P (2012, November 12). (2013, December 3). Will San Diego's tides glow blue again this year?. Retrieved from http://www.mnn.com/lifestyle/eco-tourism/stories/will-san-diegos-tides-glow-blue-again-this-year

May, C (2010, July 9). (2013, December 3). ELIE SAAB HAUTE COUTURE A/W 10/11. Retrieved from http://www.girlalamode.co.uk/elie-saab-haute-couture-aw-1011/


Perrine, D (2012, May 14). (2013, December 3). Bioluminescent bloom makes beach a magical minefield. Retrieved from http://www.newscientist.com/blogs/shortsharpscience/2012/05/bioluminescent-bloom-makes-bea.html

Sewing S (2013). (2013, December 3). Sewing Material: REAL Silk Crinkle Chiffon Fabric Black (by 0.5Meter) # RC-Black. Retrieved from http://sewings.com/silk-fabrics-materials/pure-silk-crinkle-chiffon-fabrics/sewing-material-real-silk-crinkle-chiffon-fabric-black-rc-black.html

The Fabric Fairy (2013). (2013, December 3). Black Cotton Jersey Knit Fabric. Retrieved from http://thefabricfairy.com/black-cotton-jersey-knit-fabric-9012.html

The Fabric Fairy (2013). (2013, December 3). Light Blue Cotton Lycra French Terry Fabric. Retrieved from http://thefabricfairy.com/light-blue-cotton-lycra-french-terry-fabric.html

Truro Fabric (2013). (2013, December 3). Pure Silk Chiffon Fabric- Black. Retrieved from http://www.trurofabrics.com/silk-fabrics/chiffon/pure-silk-chiffon-fabric-black-10554.html

Vogue Fabrics (2013). (2013, December 3). VF133-40 Pseudonyms Pique - Texture Blue Bird's-eye Jacquard Stretch Cotton Fabric. Retrieved from http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/VF133-40-Pseudonyms-Pique-Texture-Blue-Bird-s-eye-Jacquard-Stretch-Cotton-Fabric.html

 (2013, January 23). (2013, December 3). Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013. Retrieved from http://searchingforstyle.com/2013/01/giambattista-valli-haute-couture-spring-summer-2013

Fabric Board


Monday, December 2, 2013

Final Solution Rational


Introduction
My partner and I make up the fashion design team, together we are creating two outfits.  The outfits are for a marine themed fairy tale story book character, the 2014 Technology Student Association’s fashion design competition inspired the project.  Marine organisms inspired each alternate solution; representations of each organism can be seen in their respective designs.  Each design has a component that mimics a characteristic of the marine organism inspiration came from.  Developing each solution took creativity, ingenuity and numerous revisions.  To narrow down the four solutions to one final solution I created a specification chart, and then graded each solution on a 0-10 scale.          

Alternate solution 1



 




Solution 1 draws inspiration from bioluminescent algae.  Bioluminescent algae illuminate, similar to the way a lightning bug does, the algae light up a shore line.  The algae don’t shine light as a flashlight does but they do glow.  To mimic the glow of the algae I incorporated glow in the dark fabric paint into the design.  The skirt consists of two separate layers.  A shorter layer made of a stretchy form fitting material similar to a cotton jersey covered by a sheer, light-weight, flowy material like a silk chiffon or organza.  The flowing material represents the movement of the ocean.  The top layer of the skirt adorned with glow in the dark splattered paint mimics the algae.

Pros

The wearer can put the garment on and take the garment off easily. The skirt does not require difficult pattern making or sewing techniques. The splattered glow in the dark paint clearly represents the bioluminescent algae. The garment’s glowing has a dramatic affect that will look good on stage.

 Cons

The garment’s length could cause the wearer to trip.  Multiple materials are involved in the creation of the garment; therefore finding the fabrics, paint and adornments (i.e. zippers, ribbon, etcetera) could prove difficult.   I intend for the top layer to be made out of silk chiffon or organza, both expensive fabrics.  The garment requires a black light for the garment to glow the brightest.  I worry that the fabric paint might be thick and heavy causing the garment not to flow the way I envision.     

Overall the first alternate solution depicts the algae well, sewing and patterning the garment won’t be difficult, the garment has aesthetic value and can be put on and taken off easily.  Minor cons exist: the price of materials, the fabric not reacting the intended way and the length being a tripping hazard. All in all the garment fits the specifications, limitations therefore is a viable solution.  

 

Alternate Solution 2



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



The sea turtle inspired the second alternate solution, a cloak.   Made from a warm, water resistant material this garment protects the wearer as a shell protects a turtle.  The wearer wears the coat with arms inside the garment.  The coat has two slits for the wearer's hands to go through if needed.  The inside of a turtle and the red found on some sea turtles’ shells inspired the red lining. 

 Pros

The cloak is evidently inspired by a sea turtle; the wearer can retract into the cloak as turtles can retract into their shell.  The cloak protects the wearer, and has all permanent closures (i.e. seems) making sewing the garment and finding materials easier.  Overall the garment is unique, I have never seen a similar garment.    

 Cons

The cloak has a lining; I am not familiar with sewing linings into a garment and worry about the difficulty involved.  The cloak not having any temporary closures is a pro and a con, all permanent closures means to put on and take off the garment the wearer must pull the cloak over her head.  This can become an inconvenience in many situations, such as in the car.  The garment may not be dramatic enough for a live performance. 
 
The design of the cloak is unique and edgy. I find the design to be simple yet powerful.  A wearer must pull the garment over her head to wear, a pro and con.  No closures, like zippers or buttons are needed, making the garment easier to construct; however the wearer may have difficulty in certain situations putting on and taking of the cloak.  The design mimics the sea turtle’s shell but  may not be dramatic enough. 


Alternate solution 3

 

The circle skirt shown above, constructed from a flowy, soft material, such as a cotton fabric, draws inspiration from the starfish's unique ability to regenerate.  By having two skirts in one, the garment mimics this regeneration ability. The bottom layer's construction includes buttons while the top layer's construction includes button holes giving the skirt the ability to be attached to the base layer.   Removing the top skirt reveals the bottom layer, the skirt in a sense "regenerates".

Pros

The skirt mimics sea stars in both color and ability to “regenerate”.  The skirt’s basic shape means the garment is easily created, and the length does not pose a tripping hazard as the maxi skirt does.  Cotton, the intended material is found easily and cheaply.     

Cons

The skirt lacks originality; the common A-line shape lacks the drama necessary for a stage costume.  The length toes the line of appropriate versus inappropriate, people move around so I worry that a wardrobe malfunction is possible.  With an explanation the correlation between sea stars and the garment is visible but not clear.  The simple shape means the garment is easily patterned and made however the buttons and two add complexity.          
The sea star skirt has pro and cons; the cons out way the pros though.  The garment lacks uniqueness and the removable layer adds complexity, making sewing difficult compared to the bioluminescent skirt and the cloak.    Personally I don’t find the garment to be of high aesthetic value.  Overall the garment is a viable solution.

Alternate Solution 4



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 The final alternate solution, a faux leather jacket, draws inspiration from the horseshoe crab.  The horseshoe crab grows by molting.  To mimic this feature, the jacket's black sleeves are attached using zippers making them removable.  Further, the jacket protects the wearer as a shell protects a crab.  On an aesthetic level, the pointed shoulder and hem resemble the points on a horseshoe crab's shell.
Pros

The garment is original and has drama worthy of stage. The quilted pattern of the left side of the jacket adds uniqueness to the garment.  Putting the garment on and taking the garment off due to the zippers.  The removable sleeves mimic the molting of horseshoe crabs; as well the pointed shoulder and hemline mimic the horns seen on some horseshoe crabs.     

 Cons

The intended material is faux leather, a material more costly then the materials suggested for other garments, like cotton.  To remove the sleeves a zipper is sewn into the shoulder seem, the zipper can be uncomfortable for the wearer.  The difficulty of construction is a worry, generally jackets are a difficult type of garment to construct.  On top of that the garment has an asymmetrical zipper, zippers in both shoulder seems, pointed shoulders and an abnormal hemline.        

Alternate Solution 4 is overall a strong design.  The primary problem is difficulty of construction.  Having minimal sewing background comes into play when choosing a final solution.  If I am unable to sew the garment as intended high aesthetic value and uniqueness won’t matter if the garment barely resembles the original design.  The garment fits all specs, as seen in the spec check blow, the design is a viable solution.   

Spec Check

 
Alternate Solution 1
Alternate Solution 2
Alternate Solution 3
Alternate Solution 4
Be designed for an original fairy tale character
Be inspired by a marine organism
Fit model based on her measurements
Be patterned to full scale
Not yet applicable
Not yet applicable
Not yet applicable
Not yet applicable
Be patterned using muslin fabric
Not yet applicable
Not yet applicable
Not yet applicable
Not yet applicable
Be made to be used as an on stage costume
Be made of quality materials
Have closures for easy on and off (i.e. zippers, buttons, etcetera)
X

Conclusion
See Design Matrix

Through the use of a design matrix/ specification chart and a speck check chart I determined Alternate solution 1 the best solution.  The design matrix/ specification chart can be found in a separate post labeled specification chart. 

The specification chart shows an image of each alternate solution along the top of the chart, specifications are displayed on the left hand side of the chart.  All the alternate solutions are graded based on how they fit the listed specification; the grading is on a 0 to 10 scale, 0 meaning the alternate solution does not fit the specification at all, and 10 being the alternate solution fits the specification well.

Alternate solution one is the final design because the garment is aesthetically pleasing, clearly inspired by bioluminescent algae, school appropriate and simple to sew.  The pros and cons of each design determine where the solution falls on the grading scale.  Scoring the highest on the specification chart determined Alternate Solution 1 as the best solution. 

  Alternate Solution 1, the bioluminescent inspired design has a score of 95 only one point above the turtle inspired cloak.  That one point shows that both designs adequately fit the design brief, Alternate solution 1 is just a bit better.